Sunday, 16 August 2009

Healthy Cat Food

We are nothing if not practical on this blog and today's offer is from our good friends at about.com.cats and below is their website, cut and paste into your browser.
http://www.ehow.com/how_5087982_make-healthy-cat-food.html

We focus once again on the many benefits of homemade cat food for your cat's health and how simple a task it really is.


How To

How to Make Healthy Cat Food

ds_7f2ec1fa-49cb-460d-9943-b255a56531b8 Contributor
By Sunny
eHow Contributing Writer
(1 Ratings)
How to Make Healthy Cat Food

Making your own cat food is a simple task. It is generally healthier than feeding your cat store-bought food because it contains mostly natural ingredients. It's also a cost-effective way to make sure your cat gets all of its nutritional needs met. Cats have a very high protein requirement, so the bulk of homemade cat food recipes consist of high-protein foods. According to Astro Star, certain foods must be avoided when making cat food recipes because they can be harmful to cats. These foods include onions, bones, pork and chocolate. Cats seem to love natural foods, and with simple food preparation techniques, they are easy to accommodate.

Difficulty: Easy
Instructions

Things You'll Need:

  • Mixing bowl 4 oz. ground beef 1 oz. oatmeal Seasonings (optional) 500 g fish oil Skillet (optional)

    Healthy Cat Food Recipe

  1. Step 1

    Put 4 parts of a high-protein food into a large mixing bowl. Good options include 4 oz. of either ground beef or cottage cheese.

  2. Step 2

    Add 1 part of a natural carbohydrate to the protein. A healthy, inexpensive choice is 1 oz. oatmeal, but there are plenty of other good options, such as barley, spinach, tomatoes and brown rice.

  3. Step 3

    Add any desired seasonings to the mixture. Examples of tasty additions include small amounts of garlic powder, dill weed and nutritional yeast powder. Seasonings are optional, but they add variety to your cat's meals.

  4. Step 4

    Add 500 g fish oil to the bowl. VetLord.org recommends fish oil as a supplement for healthy cats. It is available at most health food stores and adds essential fatty acids to your cat's diet.

  5. Step 5

    Mix all ingredients thoroughly. You can feed this meal to your cat raw. If you find your cat doesn't like raw foods, however, cook the mixture in a skillet over medium heat until cooked through.

Friday, 7 August 2009

Weight loss cat Food The Natural way

Our cats are becoming increasingly obese. What happened? We moved out cats indoors, we reduced the amount of exercise we gave them and we changed their diet 100%. A recipe for disaster. What resulted was an epidemic of cats ranging from overweight to grossly obese.

What then happens is what we experience ourselves. Just a few of the many problems.

  • The more overweight the cat, the less it moves around.
  • Its lifespan is shortened.
  • Overweight cats develop diabetes, stiff joints, arthritis and so on.

Just a few on the things that result from being overweight. How on earth did all this happen? Well quite simply, it is lack of exercise and part diet. Cats have become house cats and seldom venture outdoors, what is worse is that their diet has become a carbohydrate one which gets broken down into sugars and fats. A wild cat by comparison converts protein into energy, not carbohydrates. Carbohydrates take a cat's metabolism on a wild ride with ups and downs, easy to see why a cat piles on the weight.

How to correct all this? Well the best way is to stop feeding your cat commercial food with all its flaws and instead put your cat on a diet of fresh natural food you prepare yourself. The diet should be 60 -70% protein with plenty of moisture and rounded out with small amounts of vegetables or minimal grains like rice. Returning it to a natural diet will show changes such as a glossier coat, more energy and vitality and a real bounce in its step.

Weight loss starts at home and does not come from a tin or bag, remember there are no fat cats in the wild! Weight loss and health come from your own knowledge and your own kitchen.

To help you all further please read the article below from this excellent website, copy and paste into your browser.


http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.littlebigcat.com%2Findex.php%3Faction%3Dlibrary%26act%3Dshow%26item%3Dtherightweightlossprogramforcats&sourceid=navclient-ff&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1B3GGGL_enGB311GB312


The Right Weight Loss Program for Cats!

By Jean Hofve, DVM

A reader recently emailed us to ask how she could help her cat lose weight. Indeed, obesity is a serious problem for our feline friends. Many serious health problems can result from obesity, such as arthritis, diabetes, liver disease, heart failure, and kidney disease.



In most feline cases, obesity occurs when tasty, high-carbohydrate food is available 24 hours a day. Single cats may eat out of boredom; when there are multiple cats, when one eats, the others may be inspired to also eat, just to keep the playing field even.

Research has shown that, left to their own devices, cats will "nibble" from a bowl of dry food up to 20 times a day. The researchers conclude that this is "normal" behavior. Well, it may be common—especially when cats are left alone in a cage with nothing else to do!—but it surely isn't "normal."

As carnivores, cats are designed for a feast-famine lifestyle. They have a large stomach and short intestinal tract that can take in a large meal and process it quickly. Think about all those nature shows on Animal Planet. The big cats make a kill, stuff themselves until they can't take another bite, sleep for a couple of days, then go out to hunt again. Our domestic cats are, anatomically and physiologically, identical to their big cat cousins. Clearly, the "grazing" lifestyle is not natural for cats of any size!

When cats "graze" on dry food, many problems will result. First of all, dry food is dehydrating, and thus contributes to bladder and kidney problems.

Also, most dry cat foods contain from 30-55% carbohydrate. Cats use mainly protein and fat for energy, unlike humans who can utilize carbs directly. This means that the carbs in a cat's diet are basically unusable, providing only calories and little or no nutrition. And we know what happens to excess calories—they get converted to fat!

Another problem with carbs is that they cause wide swings in insulin. Over time, this can lead to diabetes. One researcher bluntly calls dry cat food "diabetes in a bag." Studies have repeatedly proved that most diabetic cats will reduce or even eliminate their need for insulin shots if they are put on a low-carb diet.

The other major issue with dry foods is the processing. The ingredients are subjected to high heat twice during the manufacturing process, which can denature proteins and potentially trigger food allergies.

The famous "Atkins Diet" is actually ideal for cats. It's high in protein and fat, and also high in moisture—which is important for cats' urinary tract health. The "Catkins" diet typically consists of either canned cat food or low-carb homemade food. This diet is the key to weight loss for your tubby kitty. Feed as much as she will eat in 1/2 hour, two or three times a day. A handful of cats will initially gain weight on the Catkins diet, but nearly all cats will ultimately re-regulate and lose weight easily, and more importantly, in a healthy way.



When choosing canned foods for your feline pal, in general stay away from those that contain "by-products", giblets, or large amounts of fish. Also, some pop-top cans have been linked to the development of hyperthyroidism, so it's best to go for the large multi-serving cans (or get a few more cats—mine will down an entire 15-oz. can in one meal!).



A word about the new "low-carb" and "no grain" dry cat foods. While they are clearly a step up from the high-carb brands, they are still not so great for cats. These high-protein dry foods are even more dehydrating than regular dry foods; and they are still heat-processed. Cats will still gain weight if the food is left out all the time.

If your cat is a total dry food junkie, converting her to one of the low-carb dry foods may be a good first step, but the ultimate goal should be to move the cat to an all-wet food diet fed in meals. (For more on how to get your cat on a better diet, see "Switching Foods" in our Library.)

For a more detailed report on this issue, see "Fat Cats" in our Bookstore.

Tuesday, 4 August 2009

Recessionary Times For Cat Lovers

Here is a brilliant article from http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/what_you_can_do_if_you_are_having_trouble_affording_veterinary_care.html, longer than I usually post with lots of suggestions and help for those feeling the pinch in these recessionary times where we all need our pets to live as healthily as possible and where better to start than with their diets.? Article is from The Humane Society Of The United States, a great place to get help with all your pets large or small. How many of us have health insurance for our pets to ward off the worst of those vet's bills?





What You Can Do If You Are Having Trouble Affording Veterinary Care


©iStock.com

Help for Pet Health Care Costs

Many pet owners, at one point or another, are faced with unexpected veterinary bills.

Veterinary medicine has advanced to such a degree that caregivers have new, and often expensive, options for the care of their ailing pets. Although the cost of veterinary care is actually very reasonable in comparison with the much higher cost of human health care, an unexpected medical emergency can present a major financial dilemma for an unprepared pet owner.

Having Trouble
Affording Your Pet?

There are groups that can help.


The Humane Society of the United States recommends that, in addition to preparing for routine pet-care costs, you regularly set aside money to cover for unexpected veterinary bills or consider pet health insurance. For example, create a special "pet savings account" and contribute money to it on a regular basis.

Another great option is to purchase a pet health insurance policy. The HSUS has partnered with Petplan USA, to offer great saving to our members. Petplan USA is affiliated with Petplan UK—the world's largest and most trusted pet insurance company. It's recommended by more pet owners and veterinarians than any other. Use whichever option works best for you. The important thing is to have a plan and stick to it.

If, despite your planning, your pet incurs major veterinary expenses that you have trouble affording, consider these suggestions:

• Ask your veterinarian if he or she will let you work out a payment plan. Many veterinarians are willing to work out a weekly or monthly payment plan so that you do not have to pay the entire cost of veterinary care up front.

• Contact your local shelter. Some shelters operate or know of local subsidized veterinary clinics or veterinary assistance programs. You can find the name and number of your local shelter in the Yellow Pages of your phone book under "animal shelter," "animal control" or "humane society," or by calling Information. You can also go to Pets911.com and enter your zip code to find a list of animal shelters, animal control agencies, and other animal care organizations in your community.

• If you have a specific breed of dog, contact the National Club for that breed. (The American Kennel Club, akc.org, has a list of the national dog clubs.) In some cases, these clubs offer a veterinary financial assistance fund. Additionally, The HSUS has a list of breed-specific assistance groups.

• There are some organizations that offer assistance locally (by state or community). See our state-by-state (including Canada) listing.

• The HSUS also has a list of organizations that provide assistance to senior, disabled or ill pet owners.

• Ask your veterinarian to submit an assistance request to the American Animal Hospital Association's (AAHA) "Helping Pets Fund." In order to qualify, your animal hospital must be AAHA accredited. To learn more about the program visit the AAHA web site. To find an AAHA accredited hospital in your area, search online at Pets911.com.

• If you bought your dog from a reputable breeder, check your contract to see if there is a health guarantee that covers your pet's ailment.

• Check with veterinary schools in your state to see if they offer discount services to the public. You can find a list of veterinary schools in the Education section of the American Veterinary Medical Association's (AVMA) website, avma.org.

• Use your credit card. Ask for a higher credit limit or a cash advance.

• Call your bank. Ask about loan programs or other options they can suggest that might be helpful in your situation.

• Ask your employer for a salary advance.

• Alert family and friends and ask them each for a $25 loan.

• Consider taking on a part-time job or temping.

• Contact Care Credit at www.carecredit.com

• Apply for a Citi Healthcard at www.healthcard.citicards.com

• Start your own fundraising collection at www.fundable.com

Given the current state of the economy, many pet caregivers are in need of basic necessities such as pet food. If you find yourself in this position, be sure to contact your local humane societies as some organizations have started their own pet food bank program. In addition, you can visit petsofhomeless.com/members.htm to view a state-by-state listing of food banks that are offering pet food for the pets of the homeless and disadvantaged.

The following is a list of organizations that provide financial assistance to pet owners in need. Please keep in mind that each organization is independent and has their own set of rules and guidelines. Therefore you will have to investigate each one separately to determine if you qualify for assistance:

Please remember that, depending on the severity of your pet's illness or injury, you might still lose your pet even after great expense. Discuss the prognosis and treatment options thoroughly with your veterinarian, including whether surgery or treatment would just cause your animal discomfort without preserving a life of good quality.

Also remember that a little preventive care can go a long way. Having your pet spayed or neutered, keeping her shots up to date, and keeping your pet safely confined can prevent serious and costly health problems. If you have trouble affording the cost to spay or neuter your pet, contact your local animal shelter. They might operate a clinic or know of a local clinic that offers subsidized services.

Unfortunately, due to our limited resources as a nonprofit animal protection organization, The HSUS does not provide direct financial assistance to pet owners for veterinary or other expenses. If you know of any veterinary assistance programs or services that we have not included here, please let us know by calling 202-452-1100.

Breed Specific Assistance Programs
The Boston Terrier Rescue Net, bostonrescue.net
CorgiAid, corgiaid.org
Special Needs Dobermans, doberman911.org
Disabled Dachshund Society, ourdds.org
Dougal's Helping Paw (Scottish Terriers, West Highland White Terriers and other small, short legged terriers), http://www.welcome.to/dougalsfund
Labrador Harbor, labradorharbor.org/
Labmed, labmed.org
Labrador Lifeline, labradorlifeline.org
Westimed (West Highland White Terriers), westiemed.org
Pyramedic Trust (Great Pyrenees), http://www.angelfire.com/bc2/pyramedic/summary.html


Working/Service Dogs
Helping Harley Cancer Treatment Grant, http://grants.landofpuregold.com
Assistance Dogs Special Allowance (ADSA) Program, http://www.cdss.ca.gov/cdssweb/PG82.htm

State-Specific Programs
CANADA
Animal Cancer Therapy Subsidization Society Lucky Moffat Memorial Fund, actssalberta.org/lucky/lmmf.asp (Alberta Canada Only)
The Farley Foundation, farleyfoundation.org (Ontario Canada Only)

CALIFORNIA
Actors and Others for Animals, actorsandothers.com
SF/SPCA Animal Hospital, sfspca.org/hospital/index.shtml
Animal Health Foundation, http://animalhealthfoundation.net/
Peninsula CatWorks (cats only), www.peninsulacatworks.org

COLORADO
Max Fund, maxfund.org
Harrison Memorial Animal Hospital, www.hmah.org

CONNECTICUT
Connecticut Humane Society Fox Veterinary Clinic, cthumane.org/site/PageServer?pagename=About_Fox

MARYLAND/WASHINGTON, D.C.
Washington Animal Rescue League, warl.org

MASSACHUSETTS
Alliance For Animals Metro Action Clinic, afaboston.org/clinic.htm
Massachusettes SPCA (Provides financial assistance for pet owners receiving services at one of its three medical centers, mspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=AAMC_Boston_Financial_Assistance):

Angell Memorial Animal Hospital-Boston
350 South Huntington Ave.
Boston, MA 02130
617-522-7282

Angell Animal Medical Center-Nantucket
21 Crooked Lane
Nantucket, MA 02554
508-228-1491

Angell Animal Medical Center-Western New England
171 Union St.
Springfield, MA 01105
413-785-1221

The Sampson Fund
PO Box 1756
Orleans, MA 02653
sampsonfund.org
The fund is to benefit companion animals of Cape Cod and the adjacent Islands of Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard.

MICHIGAN
Michigan Humane Society maintains three veterinary clinics:
michiganhumane.org

Detroit
MHS Detroit Center for Animal Care
Veterinary Center:
7401 Chrysler Drive
Detroit, MI 48211
313-872-0004

Rochester Hills
MHS Rochester Hills Center for Animal Care
Veterinary Center:
3600 W. Auburn Road
Rochester Hills, MI 48309
248-852-7424

Westland
MHS Berman Center for Animal Care
Veterinary Center:
900 N. Newburgh Road
Westland, MI 48185
734-721-4195

NEVADA
Shakespeare Animal, shakespeareanimalfund.org

NEW JERSEY
Save U.S. Pets Foundation (Veterinarian must apply on behalf of pet owner), www.saveuspets.org

NEW YORK
NY S.A.V.E Inc., nysave.org/index_2.html
ALL 4 PETS, all4petswny.org (Limited to Western New York)

NORTH CAROLINA
Ashley's Angel Fund, ashleyfund.org/

OREGON
The Bearen Foundation, bearenfoundation.org/funding.htm

PENNSYLVANIA
Animal Care & Assistance Fund, http://www.animalcarefund.org
The Animal Rescue of Western PA, animalrescue.org/Clinic.htm
The Humane Society of Berks County Veterinary Hospital, berkshumane.org/vets/vets_services.asp

RHODE ISLAND
RIVMA Companion Animal Foundation, companionanimalfoundation.org

TEXAS
Texas A&M College of Veterinary Medicine "The Capper and Chris Save the Animals Fund," cvm.tamu.edu/capperchris/index.shtml

Organizations Offering Assistance Programs for Senior, Disabled or Ill Pet Owners
CALIFORNIA
Voice for the Animals Foundation, Helping Friends Program, http://vftafoundation.org
AniMeals Helen Woodward Animal Center, animalcenter.org/animeals/
SF SPCA Animal Hospital, sfspca.org/hospital/index.shtml
SHARE Marin Humane Society, marinhumanesociety.org/ProgramsServices/SHARE.html
PAWS San Diego, pawssdc.org/
PALS - Pets Are Loving Support, http://sonic.net/~pals/index.html
PAWS Los Angeles, pawsla.org/
PAWS San Francisco, pawssf.org

CONNECTICUT
Manchester Area Network on AIDS AID-A-PET, mana-ct.net/Aid-A-Pet.html

DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA
PETS-DC, petsdc.org/

GEORGIA
PALS - Pets Are Loving Support, palsatlanta.org

HAWAII
Hawaiian Humane Society: PALS Program, hawaiianhumane.org/programs/pals/

MASSACHUSETTS
Phinney's Friends (MSPCA), mspca.org/phinneysfriends

MICHIGAN
Pet Support Services, petsupportmi.org/

NEVADA
Shakespeare Animal, shakespeareanimalfund.org.

NEW JERSEY
PetPALS of Southern New Jersey, petfinder.com/shelters/NJ151.html

NEW YORK
Humane Society of Lollypop Farm, lollypop.org/orgMain.asp?ssid=&storyID=105&orgID=14&sid

PENNSYLVANIA
Pittsburgh PAWS (Pittsburgh AIDS Task Force), andrew.cmu.edu/user/natashat/PAWS/

TEXAS
SPCA of Texas, spca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=programs_socialservices_2004#petomeals

UTAH
Pet Samaritan Fund, www.petsamaritan.org

WASHINGTON
Pet Project: Seattle-King County Humane Society, seattlehumane.org/petproject.shtml and seattlehumane.org/foodbank.shtml
Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine Good Samaritan Fund, www.vetmed.wsu.edu/depts-prd/GoodSam

CANADA
Pet Program (Toronto PWA Foundation), pwatoronto.org/what.htm#pets

For more information, visit cdc.gov/healthypets/resources/local_organizations.htm.


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Saturday, 1 August 2009

Commercial Cat Food Dangers

Here is a golden nugget I'd like to share with those of you who have not read the articles by the brilliant Dr.Lisa Pierson DVM at her site http://www.catinfo.org they are well reasoned and converted me entirely to feeding my cats her way and understanding the link between homemade cat food and health.



The Dangers of Commercial Pet Food - Especially Dry Food


With regard to the safety of raw meat diets, you will no doubt hear varying opinions on this issue. Many of my colleagues are adamantly opposed to the feeding of raw meat yet they think nothing of supporting the common practice of leaving bowls of dry food sitting out for pets to free-feed from and supporting the feeding of treats which can be contaminated with fungal mycotoxins, bacteria, or chemicals. It is very frustrating to witness this narrow-mindedness and lack of knowledge as it pertains to the contamination issues regarding dry food and treats.

I would like to see my colleagues stop reflexively telling their clients that all raw meat diets are dangerous and understand that there are ways to prepare this diet that will actually make it safer than the commercial foods that they continue to recommend without any thought as to feline illnesses that these foods contribute to, and to the contamination issues.

I don't think that a single cat or dog caregiver in the US is not aware of the thousands of cats and dogs that suffered tremendously and died - or have been left with failing kidneys and a shortened lifespan/diminished quality of life - due to the contamination of commercial foods processed by Menu Foods in the summer of 2007.

While the Menu Foods recall was the largest pet food recall in the history of commercial pet food, make no mistake in thinking that this was the first time that many cats and dogs have died after consuming commercial pet foods that have been contaminated with chemicals, bacteria, and bacterial or mold toxins.

However, keep in mind that the vast majority of these contamination disasters (outside of the Menu Foods tragedy) have involved dry food or treats - not canned food. Therefore, if you decide that you don't want to make your cat's food, please feed canned food and keep the dry food out of your cat's food bowl.

Dry food is simply not a healthy or safe diet to be feeding to any cat.

There have been many instances of mold toxin-related deaths of pets after eating contaminated commercial dry food. I have listed a few below but these tragedies are too numerous to list all of them.

The regulatory body for the commercial pet food industry does allow a certain level of mold toxins (found in grains) to be present in your pets' food. For me, this is unacceptable - especially when feeding cats - since grains have no business in their diet to begin with.

With regard to the extremely dangerous and life-threatening fungal toxins found in commercial dry food, this issue will never be a worry when feeding a grain-free diet - either in the form of canned food or the diet discussed on this page.

And if mold toxins and bacteria in dry food are not enough to cause us worry, please consider the fact that the fats contained in dry food become rancid over time - even with the preservatives that are added to the food. Heat, oxygen and light are all factors involved in fats becoming rancid. Keeping dry food in the refrigerator will help with the issue of heat but that still leaves the oxidation issue unaddressed.

Dry foods that are fed to pets sit in warm warehouses and pet food stores before they even reach our pets' bowls - promoting rancidity of fats, bacterial growth, mold growth, and toxin formation, and proliferation of storage mites.

See this link for an abstract that discusses the issue of storage mites that were found in 9 out of 10 bags of tested dry food.

This link will take you to an article on a website maintained by the pet food industry. This article discusses the use of ethanol by-products in pet foods.

There is absolutely no doubt in my mind that many cats and dogs have died as a result of consuming commercial pet foods. These deaths include the various illnesses (diabetes, etc.) that manifest themselves due to the species-inappropriate composition (composition = percentage of calories coming from proteins/fats/carbohydrates) of the diet, as well as out-and-out contamination issues as discussed above and below in the Pet Food Recalls section.

Unfortunately, humans just don't recognize these illogical and unsafe diets as the cause of the pet's illness. Humans - including veterinarians - often fail to put 2 + 2 together in many instances of ill health or death. Food is often the last thing to even be considered as a cause or contributing factor in the event of an illness or death.

It never ceases to amaze me when I hear people (both lay people and veterinarians) caution people about the hazards of raw meat diets but then ignore the bowls of kibble sitting out in many homes. Dry food is far from safe and pathogen-free. Both food forms - raw diets and dry kibble - carry risk. However, I feel much safer feeding the diet that I prepare myself versus any dry food in terms of cleanliness and overall safety.

As stated above, we all must work within our comfort zone. If you find that you are not comfortable feeding a raw meat - or lightly cooked - diet even when implementing the tips in my safety section, then please feed a high quality canned food and remove all dry kibble from your cat's diet. Although my cats primarily eat a carefully prepared raw (or lightly cooked) meat and bones diet, I do feed some canned food on occasion (a few times a year) as a treat since some of my cats really like canned food.

Homemade Cat Food and Health

It may take a long time for cat owners to make the connection between homemade cat food and health and to change their pet to a natural diet free from the many contaminants found in commercial pet food. The advantages of putting your cat on a diet of fresh natural food you source and prepare yourself soon become clear. Who else is bothered by waste? I reckon I used to throw away at least 3/4 of every tin of cat food that I opened. The cat would eat a bit then refuse the rest, it was seriously expensive, annoying and frustrating. Once I switched to homemade food I soon learned just what my friend would eat and have six different meals I can alternate, that way the cat never tires of the same old food day after day. That is an end of the waste. My cat's health improved dramatically, especially with the raw food they both love. Their coats became more glossy and they are both far more active. It was as if I was feeding them a diet of junk food before, making them overweight and slothful.

Popping the lid on a can is almost effortless but a pet owner must truly consider if continuing to poison their pet in exchange for convenience is a road they really want to go down.

For me the real payoff for my efforts is that once my cats were on a proper diet of quality fresh food they now only go to the vet's once a year for a checkup, compared to the frustration and expense of taking them down for numerous allergies they developed from the commercial food. Once they both had the required nutrients and enzymes their bodies needed, their ailments cured themselves.

I reckon I can feed a cat a quality fresh pure meal for just 64cents and I don't spend any more time at the pet food store, rather I save money while at the same time seeing my cats way healthier than they ever were on tinned commercial cat food. The scary thing is that I realise now that it cost me serious money to feed my pets food that slowly poisoned them and guaranteed I would spend even more money at the vets trying to put all this right. Remember, its never too late to change and you may well save your pet's life.

Monday, 27 July 2009

Cat Health and Diet

Some more thoughts on feline health from the brilliant Dr.Lisa A.Pierson, DVM http://www.catinfo.org and the connection between your cat's health and it's diet. Its a factor we ignore at our peril so please read on.

Common Feline Health Problems and Their Ties to Diet

There is a very strong and extremely logical connection between the way that we are currently feeding our obligate carnivores and many of the life-threatening diseases that afflict them.

  • Diabetes: Diabetes is a very serious – and difficult to manage – disease that is very common in cats. Why is it so common? The species-inappropriate high level of carbohydrates in dry food (and some canned foods) wreaks havoc on the blood sugar level of an obligate carnivore. The blood sugar level rises significantly upon ingestion of carbohydrates. With chronic hyperglycemia (high blood sugar) the insulin-producing cells in the pancreas down-regulate, or “burn out,” leading to diabetes.

Many cats have been successfully weaned off of insulin - or had the dosage significantly lowered - when transitioned to a low carbohydrate canned food. Please see this thread on the Feline Diabetes Board to read about many caregivers' success with their diabetic cats once all dry food was removed from the diet.

In addition to the issue of carbohydrates, dry food - because it is very calorie dense and is often free-fed - is the main reason why a very high percentage of cats are overweight or obese.

Fat cells produce a substance that makes the other cells in the body resistant to insulin. This promotes the diabetic state.

It is very important to understand the impact that a low carbohydrate diet has on the insulin needs of a diabetic cat.

If you have decided to start feeding your diabetic cat a low carbohydrate diet, please review my Feline Diabetes page first.

Please also be aware that many veterinarians underestimate the favorable impact that a low carbohydrate diet has on the insulin needs of the patient and they do not lower the insulin dose enough. If the insulin is not lowered accordingly, an overdose of insulin will occur which can be life- threatening. I strongly suggest that all caretakers of diabetic cats home-test to monitor blood glucose levels using a standard glucometer as a matter of routine, but careful monitoring is especially important when implementing a diet change.

Many veterinarians prescribe expensive diets such as Purina DM (Diabetes Management) and Science Diet m/d but you can do much better for your cat (and your pocketbook) by feeding other more nutritious - and lower carbohydrate - canned foods such as Wellness, Nature's Variety, etc. See the Proteins/Fats/Carbs chart. You should aim for a diet that derives less than 10% of its calories from carbohydrates.

  • Kidney Disease (CKD - formerly called "CRF"): Chronic kidney disease is probably the leading cause of mortality in the cat. It is troubling to think about the role that chronic dehydration may play in feline kidney failure. And remember, cats are chronically dehydrated when they are on a diet of predominantly dry food. The prescription dry 'renal diets' such as Science Diet k/d - which is commonly prescribed by veterinarians - contain only a small amount of moisture leaving your cat in a less than optimal state of water balance.

I must say that I find it truly amazing when I hear about the very large numbers of cats receiving subcutaneous fluids while being maintained on a diet of dry food. This is extremely illogical and unhealthy and every attempt should be made to get these cats on a diet that contains a higher moisture content. Please also note the following list of the first four ingredients of Science Diet dry k/d after reviewing this section on reading a pet food label - and bearing in mind that your cat is a carnivore. This is a diet that would never find its way into a food bowl owned by any cat in my care. The first three ingredients are not even meat and the fourth ingredient is a by-product meal which is not necessarily an unhealthy source of protein but it would be nice to see some muscle meat ("chicken") in this product.

Brewers rice, corn gluten meal, pork fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols and citric acid), chicken by-product meal

The purpose of this prescription diet is to restrict protein which, unfortunately, it certainly does. However, please understand that there are no studies showing that restricting protein to this level will prevent further deterioration of kidney function. k/d restricts protein to the point that the cat will often catabolize (use for fuel) his own muscle mass which results in muscle wasting and weight loss. The level of protein in this diet is not only at an extremely low level, it is in an incomplete form for a carnivore. Note that it is made up mainly of plant proteins - not meat proteins.

  • Cystitis (bladder inflammation) and Bladder/Kidney Stones: Cystitis and stones are extremely common in the cat and can be very painful and life-threatening. Cystitis can lead to inappropriate urination (urinating outside of the litter box) and stones can cause a fatal rupture of the bladder by blocking the outflow of urine.

Any cat that is repeatedly entering the litter box but not voiding any urine is in need of IMMEDIATE medical attention! This is one reason why it is so important to use a clumping litter. Clumping litter allows you to see just how much, if any, urine is being voided.

It is important to note, however, that "crystals" are not the same thing as stones. Crystals are often a normal finding in a cat's urine and it is not appropriate to put the cat on a "special urinary tract" formula when these are found in the urine.

Important: I often see too much clinical significance placed on the identification of crystals in the urine without regard to how the urine sample was handled. It is very important to understand that crystals will often form once outside of the body within a very short (one hour) period of time. If the veterinarian does not examine the urine right away and either sends it to an outside laboratory or uses a free-catch sample that the owner brought from home, an erroneous diagnosis of crystals may be made. This is called a "false positive" report and results in unnecessary worry on the part of the owner and often leads to the cat being placed on an inappropriate, low quality diet.

With regard to overall kidney and bladder health, I cannot stress strongly enough how important WATER, WATER, WATER is in both the prevention and treatment of diseases involving this organ system.

When a cat is on a diet of water-depleted dry food, they produce a more highly concentrated urine (higher urine specific gravity - USG) and they produce a lower volume of urine which means that a higher concentration of crystals will be present in the urine. This increases the chance of these crystals forming life-threatening stones. The concentrated urine and the lack of volume production can also be very irritating to the lining of the bladder wall predisposing them to painful cystitis.

Please keep in mind that a cat has a very low thirst drive and is designed to get water with their food. A diet of canned food will keep a proper amount of water flowing through the urinary tract system and help maintain its health.

If leaves keep falling on your driveway and you don’t regularly hose down or sweep your driveway, those leaves will build up and cause a problem. If you picture crystals as the leaves in this analogy, it is easy to see how canned food does a better job of ‘hosing down’ your cat’s bladder than dry food does.

Urine pH is also often considered when discussing urinary tract problems but we really need to stop focusing on pH. Again, a proper amount of water in the diet is the important issue here - not urine pH. Many of the so-called feline lower urinary tract diets are formulated to make the urine acidic but it is thought that these low magnesium, acidifying diets may actually exacerbate painful cystitis. Also, these acidifying diets, which are so often prescribed, may end up promoting calcium oxylate stones and hypokalemia (low potassium in the blood).

It is also important to note - for those people still stuck on worrying about the urine pH - that there are many factors which determine the pH of urine and only one of them is diet.

With regard to dry food and urinary tract health, aside from the lack of water in this type of diet, there is also a correlation between the consumption of a high carbohydrate diet and the formation of struvite crystals as shown by this study.

Veterinarians often prescribe Science Diet dry c/d and x/d for urinary tract problems but again, these diets are only ten percent water and contain a high level of species-inappropriate ingredients and questionable preservatives. They are also very high in carbohydrates with dry c/d containing 42 percent of its weight as carbohydrates. Please note the first few ingredients in c/d while remembering that your cat is a carnivore:

Brewers rice, chicken by-product meal, corn gluten meal, pork fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols and citric acid), chicken liver flavor, taurine, preserved with BHT and BHA

Diet is not the only issue involved with cystitis but it is an important one and one that we can control. Stress is also thought to play a very significant role in cystitis and even cats that are fed a 100 percent canned food diet may experience bouts of cystitis. This is a very frustrating disease to deal with and one that the veterinary community does not have all the answers for. What we do know is that decreasing stress and increasing the water content of the diet are the most important management issues to address. The water content of the diet is easy to control. The stress issue is another matter and is not always easy to address since cats can be very sensitive and are often 'silent' in their stress.

Cystitis can be extremely painful and it is very important to address pain management in these cats. Remember: pain = stress and we are trying to minimize the stress in these patients. Buprinex is a good choice for a pain medication. This is superior to Torbugesic which has been used for pain management in the cat in the past. (Burprinex is a prescription medication that you must get from your veterinarian.) Unfortunately, many veterinarians overlook pain medications as a very important part of the treatment of this common feline problem.

A note on antibiotic usage in these cases. Most cases of cystitis are sterile. In other words, they are not the result of an infection and should not be placed on antibiotics.

Only ~1% of cats with cystitis that are under 10 years of age have a urinary tract infection, yet many veterinarians place these patients on antibiotics when these drugs are not warranted. Most cats under 10 years of age produce a very concentrated urine (USG greater than 1.030) and bacteria do not grow well in concentrated urine.

In cats over 10 years of age, infections are more common but that still does not mean that older cats with cystitis should automatically be put on antibiotics. The reason that an older cat is more prone to urinary tract infections is because kidney disease is more common in this age group and so these cats will have a more dilute urine which is not as hostile to bacterial growth.

Diabetes and hyperthyroidism are also more common in cats over 10 years of age and both disease make the patient more prone to urinary tract infections.

A urine culture and sensitivity (C & S) should be run to check for an infection if the patient has a low urine specific gravity or is diabetic. It must be kept in mind that even with a low USG, most cases of cystitis are not due to an infection. This is why it is important to run a C & S before placing the patient on antibiotics. Antibiotics should only be used when the presence of an infection can be established.

A C & S test identifies the bacteria (if present) and tells the veterinarian which antibiotic is appropriate. The urine for a C & S needs to be obtained by way of cystocentesis which involves using a syringe and needle to obtain urine directly from the bladder. This is not a painful procedure for the cat and this method is the only way to obtain a sample for accurate information in order to properly treat with antibiotics. One problem, however, is that a sample may be difficult to obtain without waiting a few hours since cats with cystitis urinate frequently and often do not have enough urine in their bladder to get a good sample.

To get around this problem, some veterinarians will give the patient a dose of subcutaneous (just under the skin) fluids. The cat is then put into a cage without a litter box. Within a few hours, the bladder is usually full enough to obtain a urine sample via cystocentesis. This usually only takes 2-3 hours.

We have to stop treating all cases of cystitis with antibiotics without supporting evidence of an infection!

Cystitis will often recur in these patients and this painful health problem can be very frustrating to deal with. On a good note, most cats will have their clinical signs spontaneously resolve even without any treatment. In fact, it has often been said, somewhat jokingly, that a cat with cystitis will often stop exhibiting clinical signs within in seven days with treatment and in one week without treatment.

  • Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD): IBD can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and/or constipation in the cat. IBD can also present with weight loss as the only clinical sign. There are many unanswered questions with respect to this disease process, but it seems logical to start to “treat” a gastrointestinal problem in the cat with a species-appropriate diet. Too often these cats are treated with a high level of steroids and a prescription grain-laden, dry food diet. I feel very strongly that this common therapeutic regimen needs to be abandoned. There are an impressive number of anecdotal reports of cats that were terribly ill with IBD exhibiting dramatic improvement when ALL dry food was removed from their diet. Taking it even one step further, there are many reports of cats with IBD that improved tremendously on a balanced, grainless, raw-meat diet without any vegetables added. (See www.catnutrition.org for more information on IBD and diet. Also, see Making Cat Food for a balanced recipe.)

Robbie had severe diarrhea for two years until put on a grainless, vegetable-free, raw-meat diet.

  • Obesity: Obesity is an extremely common and very serious health problem in cats. For instance, overweight cats are four times more likely to develop diabetes than cats that are at an optimal weight. Obligate carnivores are designed to meet their energy needs with a high protein, moderate fat diet with little to no carbohydrates. Carbohydrates are minimally used for energy and those that are not used are converted to and stored as fat. The so-called “light” diets that are on the market have targeted the fat content as the nutrient to be decreased, but in doing so, the pet food manufacturers have increased the grain fraction, leading to a higher level of carbohydrates. Hence, many overweight cats eating these diets are still obese. These "light" products are among the most species-inappropriate, unhealthy diets available to cat caretakers. Many caretakers feed very small amounts of these diets hoping that their cat will lose weight but feeding a small amount of a diet that is inappropriate for the species is NOT the answer! The caretaker simply ends up with a crabby, overweight cat.

    (See Molly’s story at http://www.catnutrition.org/obesity.html and also on this site's Feline Obesity page to read how this sweet cat went from an inactive obese cat that could barely walk and could not even clean herself, to a very active and happy cat simply by transitioning her to canned Wellness. Molly now runs through the house playing like a normal cat. She can finally clean herself, and no longer limps.)

    Molly had great difficulty walking and cleaning herself due to her obese condition which was brought on by the consumption of dry food. Kittens, however, loved using her for a pillow.

    Molly’s veterinarian had prescribed Science Diet dry r/d for her and instructed her caretaker to feed Molly only very small portions - and to put a shock collar on her to keep her away from her housemates' food. This is not sound - or humane - obesity management advice. Science Diet r/d is an illogical and poor quality diet that contains 33 percent carbohydrates and the following - less than optimal - ingredients:

    Chicken by-product meal, corn meal, powdered cellulose 18.5% (a source of fiber), corn gluten meal, chicken liver flavor, vegetable oil, taurine, L-carnitine, preserved with BHT, BHA and ethoxyquin

    There are much healthier and more logical ways to address feline obesity.

  • Hepatic Lipidosis (Fatty Liver Disease): This is the most common metabolic liver disease of cats. Overweight cats that go longer than 48 hours without eating, for any reason, are in danger of developing this serious, and often fatal, disease. Feeding a high-protein, low-carbohydrate diet helps keep cats at an optimal, healthy body weight and, in turn, makes them less likely to end up with fatty liver disease.

  • Dental Disease: Long-standing claims that cats have less dental disease when they are fed dry food versus canned food are grossly overrated, inaccurate, and are not supported by recent studies. This frequently stated (among veterinarians and lay people) myth continues to harm cats by perpetuating the idea that their food bowls need to be filled up with an unhealthy diet in order to keep their teeth clean. The idea that dry food promotes dental health makes about as much sense as the idea that crunchy cookies would promote dental health in a human.

    First, dry food is hard, but brittle, and merely shatters with little to no abrasive effect on the teeth. Second, a cat's jaws and teeth are designed for shearing and tearing meat - not biting down on dry kibble. Third, many cats swallow the majority of their dry food whole.

    There are many factors – known and unknown - that contribute to dental disease in the cat such as genetics, viruses, and diet. There remain many unanswered questions concerning the fact that cats often suffer from poor dental health. However, feeding a high carbohydrate, species-inappropriate dry kibble diet is a negative factor, not a positive one.

    Dry kibble does not even come close to mimicking a cat’s normal diet of mice, birds, rabbits, etc. Given what a cat does eat in nature, it makes much more sense to be feeding part of the diet in the form of large chunks of meat (as large as you can get your cat to chew on) or gizzards which a cat’s teeth are designed to chew. Raw meat is ‘tougher’ to chew than cooked meat so I prefer to use raw meat to promote dental health. (See Making Cat Food - Dental Health.

    Notice the phrase “part of the diet” in the above sentence. It is very important to understand that plain meat (ie - without bones or another source of calcium) is very unbalanced since there is minimal calcium in meat. Remember that when a cat eats his normal prey, he is consuming the bones along with the meat.

    When fed as a supplement to most commercial canned foods, it is safe to feed ~15% of the daily calories in the form of plain meat. For example, if a cat is eating 6 ounces of canned food per day, you could feed him 5 ounces of canned food plus 1 ounce of chunked muscle meat per day.

    When people ask me “how often should my cats be fed chunks of meat?”, I reply “how often do you brush your own teeth?”

    Please understand that I am not saying that canned food is necessarily better for teeth than dry food. For optimal dental health, a cat should not be eating either canned or dry food since neither food type promotes healthy teeth but we have to work with what is practical in a typical home setting and feeding a cat a 'whole carcass prey' diet is not terribly practical - even if it would be great for their teeth. The compromise is to at least give them some muscle meat to chew on and stop fooling ourselves into thinking that dry food promotes dental health in our cats.

  • Feline Asthma/Allergic Airway Disease: Many cats have had their respiratory symptoms (coughing/difficulty breathing) subside considerably, or disappear completely, once they are placed on a canned food diet, or a meat-based home-prepared diet. Some of these struggling cats may have been reacting to storage mites or cockroach antigens that are present in dry foods, or they may have been reacting to the gluten (protein fraction) part of the grains that are present in dry foods. Sadly, many cats exhibiting debilitating lung disease are simply put on an immunosuppressive dose of steroids - while still being fed an inappropriate diet. While steroids are necessary in some cases of airway disease, they are not addressing the root of the problem which can, in many cases, be an allergy to proteins in the form of species-inappropriate grains, and insect antigens. Steroids commonly cause diabetes in cats and also render them vulnerable to infections from viruses, bacteria, and fungal agents so it is very important to make sure you have ruled out diet as a cause of the cat's respiratory symptoms.

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Robbie and Calvin flexing their muscles

The Safety of Dry Food

Dry food is far from a clean, safe, and pathogen-free source of food for your cat. Please see this section on my Making Cat Food page which details just a few of the many pet food recalls due to contamination with deadly chemicals, bacteria (salmonella, etc.), fungal mycotoxins, and storage mites.

The issue of rancid fats in dry food is also discussed on my Making Cat Food page.