“We see diabetic cats every week—new cases as well as chronic, recurring cases.It’s the second most common feline disorder that we treat at our hospital.”
Richard Goldstein, DVM at CornellUniversityHospital for Animals (qtd. in Ewing)
Grim words indeed and a warning for us all.
This disease has become an epidemic in cats in the same way that obesity and consequent diabetes has become to humans in the west. The sheer abundance of food, particularly junk food and convenience food has become a curse to us as we see ourselves as time poor. Commercial cat food is mostly 'junk food' that our pets become addicted too, frequently poor in nutrition so our cats eat more to satisfy themselves and so pile on the weight just as we do.
The symptoms of diabetes can be mistaken at first glance for other diseases, especially in the older cat.A cat might not possess all the warning signs, but one or two are enough to warrant further investigation.If a cat begins to lose weight while maintaining an appetite, increases the amount of water it ingests, and increases urine output, a trip to the vet is in order.For most cats, these are the early signs.
What has happened? Well we overfeed our cats who in return become 'couch potatoes', take little exercise if any, become bored and demand food which we give them and they don't need. They become overweight and lethargic and move even less and develop diabetes in the same way that we do.
What can help prevent diabetes in your cat?
Don't let your cat become a couch potato!
Do not give your cat treats, most are groaning with calories.
Remember the domestic cat came out of the savannahs of Africa and was and still is, a natural hunter, its diet should be comprised of raw meats.
You can feed your diabetic cat a diet of fresh natural foods using lean meats, low carbohydrates, absolutely no sugar and a few vegetables.
Always feed your cat on a regular schedule.
Thanks to your help and a diet of fresh natural foods, a cat with diabetes can still live a regular happy, healthy life and even be cured of this devastating disease.
For more information on how to feed and look after a diabetic cat, how and where to source food that is quick to prepare, effective and how to introduce it to your diabetic cat without expensive waste and fuss,
I found this at the brilliant site, Feline Future, its more on the subject of feeding our cats the most natural diet of al, raw food, for maximum heath, vitality and a long life. I fear many cat lovers unwittingly loose a whole decade of life with their pet through feeding commercial cat food. Feline Future do a very nice range of supplements to add to your homemade cat food in the form of their premix pouches. They guarantee that your cat gets all the vitamins and nutrients it needs for maximum health. Read on.
Cats have evolved to fit their prey. Prey does not evolve to suit a predator. The way cats look, function, and act is because of what they eat. Therefore it is not only an assumption that a wild diet meets all their nutritional needs, but a fact. They are because of it.
Learning about the nutritional needs of cats means to understand the dramatic distinction between their needs and our needs as humans. We have to come to terms with the fact that what is good for us is not necessarily good for cats. Their radical differences from us are simply the result of choosing a different evolutionary pathway and the adaptation into a different niche in the ecosystem. Fresh, raw fruit and vegetables just don’t cut it for our feline friends, and the ingestion of such foods could in fact result in painful indigestion. Over many millions of years, the ancestors of the modern domestic cat have evolved to be carnivores, and are perfectly and totally adapted to a lifestyle of predation on herbivores and the consumption of their flesh for sustenance. In fact, all feline species are so successful as predators, that in the course of their evolution, they never needed to develop the ability to metabolize and synthesize nutrients from plant matter - making them into obligate or true carnivores who can not survive without the ingestion of meat. When we compare the physiology and behavior of the domestic cat to her ancestor, most likely to be Felis Silvestris Libyca - the African Wildcat, only mere changes in appearance can be noted - the result of selective breeding by humans. Otherwise, 3000 years in our company has had little effect on the cat and, after only one generation, cats are capable of reverting to a completely wild state.
In more recent years however, the well being of Felis catus left much to be desired, and statistics indicate a dramatic decline in health and. One of the most significant and primary changes in the domestic cat’s existence has been the source of her nourishment. Both a move from the fields and woods of rural areas into the city, as well as a desire for convenience by the care giver, condemned the cat to dependency on pre-prepared foods as sustenance - products which in no respect compare to her natural diet. Good nutrition is the foundation of good health, and good health provides for survival of the individual and therefore of the species. When providing for cats under human care, it is justified to observe and adapt the behaviors and dietary habits of wild-living relatives. Long term observations have proven that domestic cats thrive on a diet comparable to that of wild cats of similar size, which comes as no surprise considering they are anatomically identical (even producing fertile offspring when hybridized). The opinion that domestic animals adapt to a more human like diet through the process of domestication is false. Domestication will impact social behavior patterns of animals, and influence appearance through selective breeding, but can not alter the nature of an animal.
The ideal scenario would be for all cats to posses the luxury of hunting for their own food, but, as it is for their human companions, life is hardly ever perfect. Small felines such as the more known Felis Silvestris Libyca - African wild cat, Felis Silvestris - European wild cat, Felis chaus - Jungle cat, Felis margarita - Sand cat, Felis nigripes - Black-footed cat, Prionailurus bengalensis - Asian leopard cat, Leopardus pardalis - Ocelot, Leopardus wiedii - Margay, Oncifelis geoffroyi - Geoffry’s cat, and Felis catus - Domestic cat, prey predominantly on small mammals such as mice, voles, rats, and sometimes hare. Young ungulates such as fawns, lamb, and antelopes are taken by some idividuals, as well as birds and reptiles. Insects are included in the diet of all of them, whereas only the Leopard cat and the Geoffry’s cat will prey on fish. Amphibians are eaten occasionally. To meet their caloric requirements and due to the relative small size of their prey, small Felidae must hunt several times a day eating, for example, five mice per day. An ideal diet for captive wild and domestic felines is captive raised whole rodents. For added variety day-old chicks and various insects could supplement the diet. However, the raising of live quarry is very inconvenient for the majority of care givers and not an acceptable practice in our society. Alternatively, whole prey is obtainable frozen through specialty pet stores which supply reptile fanciers, or directly from a breeder.
Most adult cats if not raised on whole prey - especially mice, will want nothing to do with such a natural diet. Being so specialized in their dietary needs, and nutritionally dependant on specific foods, it is natural for cats to become fixated on any main staple during their first year of life. In a natural setting, this programmed behavior insures that the young cat will have learned which foods are appropriate to eat before becoming independent. During weaning at an age of approximately 8 -12 weeks, if given the choice, cats appear to instinctively favor rodents, but will readily accept other foods if rodents are not made available. This means, in a domestic setting a cat weaned and maintained on a commercial cat food will become fixated on this type of product and reluctantly, if at all, accept other foods - no matter how natural. This however, does not imply that later in life the cat can not learn to accept other foods, although only reluctantly and under severe circumstances. In the wild, a cat may need to learn to hunt other prey if her usual prey becomes unavailable; likewise, domestic cats can be transitioned from a commercial diet to a more natural diet - with greater difficulty, however, if the cat had no chance to explore different foods during kitten hood.
The most readily accepted alternative, by cats and care giver alike, to a truly natural diet of whole prey, is a raw meat based diet. Made from muscle and organ meats meant for human consumption, supplemented and balanced with a variety of ingredients, it is a satisfactory replacement for whole prey. In its nutritional composition, Feline Future’s raw meat based dietary formulations come very close to that of the cat’s natural diet. Some supplemental feeding of whole prey is highly recommended, because the soft texture of the raw meat based diet may not involve enough chewing action to exercise the jaw muscles. Food that does not require shearing through flesh can also result in tartar deposits on the carnassial teeth (molars) in some cats. Day-old chicks, whole quail, or chicken necks are recommended for cats resisting the acceptance of rodents. In addition, the therapeutic effect on the cats’ mental well being when eating whole prey should not be underestimated.
Formulating an ideal diet for domestic and captive wild cats begins with the straight forward study of their diet as wild-living animals and the following analysis of the prey. Laboratory conducted feeding trials, used to measure minimal nutritional requirements by withholding nutrients and observation of the ensuing deficiencies, are unnecessary. It is a cruel method, and the acquired knowledge of minimal requirements leads to development of dietary formulations of non-optimal nutritional quality. Also, the simple analysis of nutritional composition is insufficient if the nature of the food and the way it is consumed remains unexplored.
Cats consume small prey whole. Larger prey is only partially eaten, leaving digestive tract, skin, hair, larger bones, or feathers. Larger prey may be eaten over several days, although cats seldom take carrion. Most importantly the food is consumed as is: raw - an important fact when considering that heat processing, even at low temperatures, will destroy or alter most essential nutrients and food components, such as amino acids, fatty acids, vitamins, and some minerals. The phobia of raw meat and homemade meals for companion cats appears to be a North American phenomenon, as to this day it remains practice in European countries, especially Germany, where it commonly receives full veterinary approval.
The raw meat diets suggested by Feline Future are the result of many years of research into the natural diet of wild-living small felines, the adaptation of human grade ingredients to the nutritional composition of prey animals as well as nutritional needs of cats, and the careful, long term monitoring of its nutritional soundness for the growth, maintenance, and reproduction of domestic cats on a study group. Other research into nutrition for companion animals in recent years has focused on development of supplements for commercial pet foods in order to achieve a more balanced diet. At the same time, various home-made recipes available to cat owners call for extensive supplementation with foodstuffs meant for improvement of human health. Most often, these supplements represent a completely unnecessary addition to the cat’s meal plan and can sometimes be harmful. Feline Future has always believed in taking feline nutrition back to basics with minimal necessity for supplementation and to many our formulation may appear too simplistic. However, we can help you to rediscover the true carnivore in your domestic feline friend, and re-invent the mouse to feed him or her.
I found this useful article at http://petshealthmatters.com and have to say I agree wholheartedly with it. Many cat owners are searching for something safe to feed their feline companions after the revelations and continuing horrors of the petfood recalls.
Approximately one in every four pets suffers from obesity. Obesity in pets can result from lack of sufficient exercise or unhealthy foods in their daily diets. Many of the health problems pets have could easily be alleviated through proper diet. Most commercial pet food recipes offered on the market today are not good for your pet. They contain chemical preservatives, dangerous by-products, indigestible fillers, high levels of carbohydrates and high levels of unhealthy fats.
If you are willing to spend hundreds or thousands of dollars to prevent common pet ailments, then why not spend a little extra on their food to keep them healthy? An unhealthy diet causes many health issues, from digestive disorders, food allergies and joint problems to diabetes, arthritis and heart disease.
Just about any unhealthy result you can think of that a human would suffer due to improper diet and exercise, your pet can suffer from as well. You have the power to change your lifestyle and become healthier. Your pets do not have that luxury. They depend on you to feed them and keep them healthy and content.
Cute, pudgy dogs may look happy and content, but their bodies aren't healthy or happy. Have your vet provide a thorough check-up. Discuss a complete nutrition plan for your dog that includes proper food and exercise. Once its been given a clean bill of health, start following the new regimen by feeding ithomemade dog food. Help your pet to become your cute and fit companion.
Cats require twice as much protein as their canine counterparts. Their bodies fuel cells with energy from protein instead of carbohydrates. High-carbohydrate cat foods can cause a lot of digestive problems for your cat. They also can turn your healthy and active cat into an obese and lazy one. While we all love a chubby, sleepy kitty, this isn't healthy for them.
Overweight cats are much more susceptible to feline diabetes and many other health problems. The best regimen for your cat includes nutritious and healthy meat-based recipes. You can find these types of recipes or create them yourself and provide your cat with homemade food that will keep them fit and healthy for life.
Providing your pets with healthy and homemade pet food designed to maintain ideal weight and health is the best gift you can give them. You bring your pets home to provide you with companionship and to give them a good home to live in. Why would you turn around and feed them unhealthy and dangerous foods that could make them sick?
A nutritious diet provides your pet with a balanced and healthy food supply that will keep them fit for life. Taking a holistic approach to caring for your pets with homemade pet food will keep them healthy, happy and living a long life. There are many dog food recipes and cat food recipes available for daily meals, treats and dietary supplements.
Take the time to talk to your vet and find out what types ingredients and supplements are best. To learn more about natural pet food recipes for meals, supplements and treats, contact a qualified and reputable source. Give your beloved pets the quality of life they deserve and keep them with you for a long and healthy lifetime.
Here is some useful information regarding supplements from http://www.littlebigcat.com. Add the supplements carefully for a balanced natural and homemade diet. Particular amino acids that can be supplemented and may be helpful for many conditions
• Arginine • Lysine • Carnitine • Taurine
Excess nutrients/minerals in many pet foods: copper, zinc, iodine – be careful with adding vitamins A, D and K, and minerals to commercial pet food.
The 4 supplements every pet needs:
1. Antioxidants
There are many kinds of antioxidants. They are important in the neutralization or scavenging of "oxygen free radicals" which are normal by-products of body metabolism. Controlled amounts of free radicals are necessary as weapons against viruses and bacteria, as well as for their role in hormone production and numerous enzyme-catalyzed reactions. However, excess free radicals can damage cellular DNA, destroy cell membranes, and lead to long-term immune system damage and cancer. Excessive amounts of free radicals are formed from exposure to radiation, including sunlight, environmental pollution, and high-fat diets. In people, a diet high in fresh fruits and vegetables may contain adequate natural antioxidants. Dogs and cats eating commercial pet food, however, may not get enough appropriate antioxidants in the diet.
Common antioxidants include Vitamins C and E, which do indeed have significant antioxidant activity as well as many other important metabolic functions. These vitamins are excellent supplements to the diet in any case. The Ester C form of Vitamin C is buffered, and is the best choice for animals. Vitamin C may be dosed to "bowel tolerance." That is, you start off adding just a little Vitamin C (50-100 mg) to the food, and increase the dose very gradually until the animal develops diarrhea. At that point, you back off to the previous dosage amount that did not cause diarrhea, and stay with that dose. The animal's tolerance may vary depending on diet, time of year, and stresses such as changes in the home, pollution, and exposure to radiation (UV light, x-rays, power lines, etc.). Natural Vitamin E comes in the form of d-alpha tocopherol, but a supplement containing mixed tocopherols (alpha and gamma) may have more benefits. (Avoid dl-alpha tocopherol, which is a synthetic form of Vitamin E.) It is very safe to give. Give 100-200 IU per day for a cat or small dog (less than 20 pounds), up to 800 IU for giant breed dogs. Vitamin E is very safe and most cats love the taste of the oil; just prick the capsule with a pin, squeeze out a few drops on your finger, and let the cat lick it off.
There are many other good antioxidant supplements. Where dosage information is not specified, give a cat or small dog about 1/10 to 1/6 the human dosage, as specified on the label, per day. (Human doses are based on a 150 lb. person)
2. Probiotics
Probiotics, which include L. acidophilus as well as a number of other beneficial bacteria, are of special importance in animals with any type of digestive problem as well as animals who are, or have been, taking antibiotics. They help keep the bacteria population in the gut balanced and healthy, and prevent "bad" bacteria from gaining a foothold. Live-culture yogurt, which contains a small amount of acidophilus, while not harmful, is not an adequate source of probiotics for the average animal.
3. Digestive Enzymes With any cooked or commercial food, it is essential to add digestive enzymes. Plant-based enzymes work in the widest range of pH and temperature, and are better for the majority of animals than pancreatic enzymes or pancreas extracts. There may be a few instances where pancreas products work better, but these should be prescribed by your veterinarian. It does not take much, just a little bit with each meal. Some sources suggest using brewer's yeast or nutritional yeast, because they contain enzymes as well as B-vitamins and other nutrients. If your animal likes and tolerates yeast, it is a fine addition to the food. However, some animals will develop an allergy to yeast, and not all of them like it. I would still recommend adding a specific enzyme combination even if you are also using yeast. Make sure that the product you select contains at least protease, amylase, and lipase (some also contain cellulase, which helps digest plant materials containing cellulose).
4. Omega 3/Essential Fatty Acids
Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids are "essential," meaning that our bodies cannot synthesize them, and they must be obtained in the diet. The modern American diet contains far more Omega-6s than Omega-3s, and many studies are showing that this imbalance is potentially harmful. No one knows the "ideal" ratio, but less than 5:1 is probably adequate. Commercial pet foods contain 10-20 times as much Omega-6 as Omega-3, because Omega-6 oils are less expensive and more stable than Omega-3's. Most fatty acid supplements for pets contain too much Omega-6 and/or too much vitamin A and D.
The first sign of a fatty acid imbalance or deficiency is most likely to show up in dogs and cats as dry, dull fur, or itchy, irritated, or flaky skin.
The best source of Omega-3 fatty acids for animals is fish oil. Most cod liver oils contain too much Vitamin A and D, but those without those added vitamins are also a good choice. You can get fish oil capsules at the health food store, variously labeled "Salmon Oil," "Marine Fish Oil," "Deep Sea Fish Oil," or "Cold Water Fish Oil." These contain the specific Omega-3 fatty acids, EPA and DHA, which can be used directly by the body. However, the capsules are large, and the oil not very palatable, especially to cats. Farm-raised salmon (usually called "Atlantic" or "Norwegian" salmon) are fed dyes, antifungal drugs, and other substances that may accumulate in body fat; avoid fish oil from these sources. "Molecularly distilled" oils are also safe.
Here is an interesting selection to start the day and get us all thinking about what we feed our cats! What wins is an all natural and homemade diet. Some great advice on the dangers of dehydration and diabetes. Great to hear from fellow cat lovers.
CATS AND WEIGHT LOSS.
We were talking about food with our vet last week when we took our twenty-pounder in for his checkup. The vet said one of his other customers built a 3-4 foot tall staircase and put the dry cat food at the on the top step, and it worked. The cat went up the stairs several times a day to eat and lost a pound over six months.
THE ADVANTAGES OF WET FOOD.
Long day.
Question for you all. I’m thinking about moving Tunch to all wet food rather than the kibble, because even though we have been dieting for a year we have only lost 3/4 of a lb. Many of you said your cats were much leaner and more active on an all wet diet, so I think I might try it.
Today, I gave Tunch his morning kibble and then for dinner I gave him some wet food. I gave him 100% salmon, and he loved it. I thought he was going to choke to death because I have never heard him purr that loudly while eating, and afterward I got a rare look that didn’t seemed like he was sizing me up for a casket. I don’t want to go overboard, but he almost looked happy.
A RECCOMENDATION FOR SOME DRY AND WET FOOD FOR HEALTHY TEETH
asiangrrrl, must disagree. Eating some kibble every day absolutely does help retard tartar buildup on the teeth. The only cat we ever had that got a wet/soft food diet exclusively lost all her teeth. On the other hand, she did live to 18… but significantly, that was the only cat we ever had that lost any teeth…all of the others got kibble along with wet food, and two of them are now in their 17th and 15th years of life.
I would suggest supplementing the wet food with a small amount of kibble just for the teeth-cleaning benefits. If that means reducing the amount of wet food by a slight amount to maintain or reduce his weight, just feed a little less of the wet stuff and a small quantity of the dry.
DIABETES AND DRY FOOD
I absolutely recommend the change. One of my cats became diabetic, and after considerable research I’m convinced that dry food caused or at least triggered it. When I changed both cats to wet food, both slimmed considerably and just seemed more healthy. The diabetic one actually went into what seems to be permanent remission.
Please check out this article: http://www.catinfo.org/felinediabetes.htm and a few others on the site.
ORGANIC FOOD AND CLEAN TEETH.
I’ve been feeding multiple generations of cats wet food (5.5 oz can, split between 2 or 3 cats) for breakfast and dinner, with crunchies available at all times for snacks. I do watch the ash content in the wet, and avoid the poor quality stuff, but otherwise give them lots of variety.
In the 35 years I’ve had cats, have never had one be overweight or get a urinary blockage. All have lived to 16-18. They do get outside for some exercise though.
Teeth cleaning, yes—every 1-3 years, but that seems to depend on the individual cat—I have 3 from the same litter—one needs his teeth cleaned annually, his brother hardly ever, and the sister needs it every couple years.
The new favorite around here is Paul Newman’s organic chicken and brown rice. Pricey, but man, they love it.
THE IMPORTANCE OF MEAT & MOISTURE
Cats are obligate carnivores, and are supposed to ideally have a diet that is around 3% carbohydrate, the rest being protein, fat and water. Cats who eat a lot of dry food, especially high carb dry food made from grains and simple starches, will be more likely to be obese and develop diabetes, liver and kidney diseases. They are just not made to metabolize that much carbohydrate.
They can tolerate a little more than than 3%—even up to 10%—but it needs to be in the form of wet food as much as possible. This is because they are physiologically adapted to getting a large proportion of their H20 from their food/prey (think of how few carbs you find in a mouse, for instance, and just how much of it’s tissue is water) and tend to be chronically underhydrated on a dry diet. You may see your cat drinking, but they may not be getting enough to compensate. Also, some vets think that the upsurge of kidney, liver and urinary tract issues in cats is directly related to their low protein/low water diets.
The main thing with wet food – or any cat food, FTM, that’s going to be the sole food source – is to make sure it has the proper amount of taurine. That’s the one amino acid cats can’t manufacture and it’s only found naturally in meats.
Our cats all go outdoors, and their depradations on the local vole and squirrel population are legion, so we don’t worry about them. We supplement their diet of tasty rodent brains with kibble always available and a little wet food once a day. Keeping their teeth clean through diet is a big point. Cats have to be anesthetised to clean their teeth and anesthesia with animals that small can be rather dicey.
One of our cats had a horrible urinary problem. One day, he literally became a statue, because he had so many crystals in his track that he could not move from the pain.
The vet told us that cats need water, as they don’t always drink enough. I give both of our cats wet food in the morning—i add water to the wet food sort of a gravy thing—and dry food in the evenings for the teeth. This has been extremely helpful. No more urinary problems for Diesel. I will say that both of our cats are overweight, and as a result I have cut way down on any cat treats.
With tuna when I give it, I add water to the tuna, and they go crazy with happiness.
THE PERILS OF DRY FOOD AGAIN
@Annie: I was feeding my cat primarily dry food thinking it would prolong dental health. Eventually she started having kidney problems and my vet told me to do exactly what Annie says here and I think it bought her another year at least to make it to the cat milestone of 20.
ANOTHER FAN OF HOMEMADE FOOD AND RAW FEEDING FOR HEALTH.
I agree with Ella in NM, but even better would be to feed 100% raw.
Feed the lower part of the chicken breast, WITH BONE (for calcium), and with skin of course. Feed raw wild sockeye salmon with bone. Feed grassfed beef, with fat but not bone.
A raw diet should be based on raw prey ratios—roughly 5-10% bone (they crunch right through it like potato chips after their jaw muscles get used to it, as long as the bones are small—again, lower end of chicken breast, salmon bones, or quail or cornish hen), roughly 10% organs (heart, liver, tongue, kidneys—and half should be liver) and the rest raw meat.
See http://www.rawfedcats.org/index.htm for the details, including excellent advice on the transition to raw, and join the rawfeeding newsgroups for more advice. You can find links at the web site.
You should raw feed Lily too.
Don’t get hung up by the raw feeders who follow complicated recipes, with veggie mixes and the like. That’s not what they’re built to eat. Go simple. It’s very easy, and they not only thrive, they love it.
IF YOU EVER WONDERED WHERE THE WILDLIFE WENT!
My cat eats birds, squirrels and rabbits, although he seems to prefer birds to mammals. He is in excellent health as catching his own food requires plenty of physical effort. When he gets stuck in the house and cannot get outside to eat, he will often attack and eat a portion of a loaf of bread.
ANOTHER COMMENT ON THE ADVANTAGES OF A RAW FOOD DIET.
I’m with Ella in NM (27/28) and Moe Gamble (47) – raw is the best, and the link Moe gives is a good one. http://www.rawfedcats.org/index.htm
We have been feeding a raw diet to the kitten we found a few months ago. She loves it!! And it is so easy. You being a chef and a foodie will have no problem at all with it, and probably have a good butcher, too, which is a bonus, though not necessary. Our little kittie eats mostly raw chicken with the little bones included (crunches right through – great for the teeth!), all the tasty organs (liver, heart lungs, kidneys, etc.) plus some beef heart occasionally, fish, eggs, and sometimes or a bit of the yogurt we make at home (or just the whey). She is health and happy. Actually, there was one day she seemed strangely lethargic and looked visibly bloated. The neighbor came by later to tell us proudly that she had fed the kittie some kibbles earlier. It was a very graphic demonstration for us that raw is the way to go.
Also, you can always keep some wet, meaty food around just for backup when you don’t have the raw on hand. That’s what we do – we keep a bunch of Friskies wet kitten food, which at least in Mexico where we are is just fish and vitamin supplements.
SOME GREAT COMMENTS HERE ON FEEDING A CAT A RAW DIET WITH SOME GOOD COMMENTS ON THE ADVANTAGES/DISADVANTAGES EXPLORED.
We converted to a 100% raw diet (with occasional cans of Wellness or Instinct as treats) several years ago after we lost the old man to complications from diabetes. For the most part, everyone’s at their ideal weight. The girls were grossly obese on kibble, but after 6 months of raw they were 90% of the way to their ideal weight. It is possible for a cat to get a little overweight on a raw diet; couple a slow metabolism with a touch of food aggression and you’ll get a fluffy cat.
Advantages of a raw diet:
1. Everyone poops less, and the poop is much less stinky;
2. Skin and coat problems have gone away;
3. Everyone’s energy level went up a notch; the 10-year-old still tears through the house gurgling periodically;
4. Weight issues went away;
5. Haven’t had urinary tract issues;
6. Teeth have stayed in fairly good shape;
Disadvantages of a raw diet:
1. Food safety does come into play—you are dealing with raw meat; you have to keep it frozen until you serve it, you can’t just leave it out all day, and whatever isn’t eaten needs to be disposed of promptly;
2. If you prepare your own (as we do), you have to pay attention to nutritional issues like calcium/phosphorous ratios, amino acid content (taurine especially);
3. You can’t just buy a chicken from the supermarket and throw it at the cat; meat should be bought fresh from a known, trusted supplier;
4. It’s expensive compared to dry food, although the cost is comparable to high-quality canned food;
We’ve heard too many horror stories about peritonitis, so we grind the bone through the medium die (raw chicken bone is no safer than cooked chicken bone). We’ll leave chunks of meat in the mix (half-inch cubes or so) which helps keep the teeth clean. If you don’t want to go through all that, there are several suppliers of premade raw food, though you may have to go to smaller, independent pet stores to get it.
It’s a lot of work, but I think it’s been absolutely worth it; our kids are healthy, they’re at the right weight (mostly; Milo and Gracie remain on the fluffy side), and are very active for their respective ages.
RAW FOOD DIET FAN.
I don’t fuss with a grinder. That helps with the food safety factor a lot, too. I just put pieces like half the size of my palm on the plate and the little kitten attacks it! A wing, for instance, I’d chop into buffalo wings pieces – done.
She has no problem with taurine because in addition to the chicken heart she always gets with each chicken, she gets occasional beef heart (gracias, carniceria!)and we just follow the general rule of thinking about their prey in the wild for ratios, like Moe said: mostly meat, then ~5-10% small meaty bones, ~10% organs, about half of that being liver. easy peasy.
We just move some raw down to the fridge from the freezer the day before we need it. our kittie will eat it cold from the fridge. of course, it’s also extremely hot where I live, so maybe that’s why.
THE PROBLEMS OF DEHYDRATION
After my big cat got those urinary crystals and one nasty expensive UTI, I bought a table-top running water fountain (brand name Drinkwell) made for cats to drink from, and switched both my cats to mostly wet food with special Science Diet crunchies thrown in. Both cats have lost weight, and they both drink a lot more at the fountain then they ever did from a bowl. I recommend the water fountain strongly.
THE NATURAL FOOD FOR CATS - RAW
What Ella in NM and Moe Gamble said.
Cats are supposed to eat meat. All meat, all the time. Raw best. But canned for convenience. (Though people make their own and store in portions in freezer.)
Dry food is a treat. It’s basically junk food for cats. For dogs, it’s healthy. That’s how people—and some misinformed vets—get confused.
The better the food, the less you have to feed.
A CAT’S MOOD AND DIET
My vets recommend wet food due to help avoid kidney problems and control weight. The extra moisture in wet food helps keep them hydrated and they feel fuller too. We switched over to grain-free wet food and the personality changes in our cats were amazing. One kitty that was in constant “bitch-mode” and thin became much more friendly. The other kitty that has a little weight problem has also become more friendly. The one kitty may be allergic to grains and that impacted her mood so I highly recommend any “grain-free” food (we used Wellness and then switched to Blue Buffalo because it was less expensive).
You can give Tunch “Greenies” to help with his teeth. Our kitties get their treats every morning and they go nuts for them.
I bet you will see a marked improvement in Tunch’s overall disposition if you switch him to wet food.
Jeez, John, I thought you switched him months ago after another of these interminable IS TUNCH FAT threads.
ANOTHER RAW FOOD FAN.
Cats eat meat, as has been pointed out repeatedly. Kibble is the equivalent of Doritos and Ruffles. I feed my cats, no kidding, ground up chickens. Bones and all. That’s the closest I can get to their normal diet in my house. My cats are all svelte and healthy with shiny coats and tons of energy.
DRY FOOD AND DIABETES
I’m a little late to this discussion, but wet food basically saved my cat’s life.
My cat was 18 years old, obese and newly diagnosed with diabetes. We had our insulin for a while, but we also switched her to wet food, and after a couple months, she lost all of her weight and now she no longer requires insulin to maintain her blood sugar levels. I had fed her dry food all her life, and this one switch made all the difference.
We feed her half a can of wet food in the AM and one half can in the PM. During the day, we give her a very small amount of dry kibble to help her with any munchies and to help her maintain dental health. It’s a very small amount, though. She doesn’t have too many teeth left.
WEIGHT LOSS AND DIET.
If you really want him to lose weight, you need to get him a little girl kitten to pal around with. The kitten will want to play a lot & since it’s a girl, Tunch should tolerate her much more than he would a young male cat. That way he’ll get more exercise than just holding the couch down all day.
Also, you need to find out what his minimal diet needs would be (for his age, etc.) & just put that out each day. If he eats it all in 3 mins, then it’ll be a long wait until next meal. Wet or dry or a combo, but only so much & no more. Make sure he has plenty of water (which I’m sure you do).
